Sainte-Marie-Majeure is the main church of Bonifacio's upper town. Its plain stone exterior fits the citadel streets around it, but the arcaded loggia gives the building a civic feel as much as a religious one.
Step inside for a pause from the glare outside, then look again at the way the church sits within the old lanes. Bonifacio is full of big views, but this is one of the places where the town's Genoese-era urban fabric feels most intact.