Le Michelangelo on Rue des Cordiers is the kind of place that has not changed much in decades — checked tablecloths, a printed menu, an unembarrassed roster of Italian and Provençal classics. The cooking is honest rather than refined: oversized antipasti, well-made pasta, grilled fish from the morning's catch.
Portions are large and the prix-fixe is good value by the Riviera's standards. It gets crowded with crews from the harbour and locals who have been coming for years. Book ahead, especially in summer.