The covered market on Cours Masséna is the everyday heart of the old town. Provençal produce, cheese, charcuterie, olives, fish, herbs, flowers — the stalls run every morning except Monday from around 6am to 1pm. On Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday evenings in summer it switches over to an artisans' market.
The bakery and traiteur stalls on the south side make a good lunch picnic; the socca stand at the western end serves it hot from the copper pan. Get there before 10am to see the market at its busiest.