Marseille drinks late and outdoors. The Cours Julien (the "Cours Ju") and the surrounding streets in the 6th arrondissement are the centre of the alternative nightlife — cafés spilling onto the square, street art everywhere, bars running into clubs as the night goes on. The Vieux-Port has more polished options, including the wine bars along the Place aux Huiles and the harbourside terraces, but expect to pay for the view.
The Panier has a small clutch of good bars: La Caravelle, hidden upstairs in a 1930s hotel above the Quai du Port, has one of the best terraces in the city for a sunset apéritif looking back across the harbour. Down the hill, La Part des Anges is a wine bar with a strong list of natural wines. La Friche Belle de Mai's rooftop runs as a bar all summer.
For coffee, the traditional Marseille apéritif is a pastis — Ricard's headquarters is east of the city, and the locals take pastis seriously. Order it as "un jaune" or simply "un pastis." The wave of speciality coffee bars has reached Marseille: Deep, in the 6th arrondissement, and Coogee on the Cours Lieutaud are reliable for a good flat white.