Chez Fonfon has been serving bouillabaisse on the edge of the Vallon des Auffes for over 70 years. The Vallon is a tiny working fishing harbour tucked into a notch in the cliffs below the Corniche Kennedy; you reach Fonfon by walking down narrow steps from the road, past the moored fishing boats and the brightly painted houses crowding the quay.
The signature dish — the proper bouillabaisse, made to the Marseille charter, with at least four species of rockfish and the broth, fish and accompaniments served separately — is expensive (around €70 per person, two-person minimum, must be ordered 24 hours ahead). The shorter à la carte menu of simply grilled and stewed fish is cheaper and very good. Either way the views from the dining room out across the little harbour are worth the trip on their own. Book ahead, especially for weekends.