The Dunkerque Carnival is one of France's oldest and most distinctive, running from late January to early March in a series of Saturday and Sunday processions through the town centre. It bears little resemblance to the sequinned Caribbean-influenced carnivals of Nice or Rio: this is a northern European affair, built around marching bands, mass crowds in costume, and the throwing of salt herring from the steps of the town hall.
The processions are led by the town's "giants" — enormous papier-mâché puppet figures representing legendary characters from local history, including the Nordic warrior Reuze Papa and his wife Reuze Maman. Groups of revellers follow the bands in elaborate costumes, singing traditional songs in Flemish dialect. Each weekend closes with a costumed ball in the evening. The carnival requires no ticket and no plan — you simply show up and join the crowd. Arriving early on a Saturday morning when the costumes are still pristine and the bands warming up is particularly atmospheric.