Eating Out

Saint-Rémy has a genuinely good restaurant scene for a small town — drawn by the same well-heeled Provençal visitors who sustain the Tuesday antique markets and the boutiques. The main concentration is on the Boulevard Victor Hugo and around the Place de la République. Local specialities are those of inland Provence: daube provençale (slow-braised beef), tapenade, ratatouille, and excellent local cheeses.

Olga by Le Bistrot Découverte (19 Boulevard Victor Hugo) is the town's most celebrated address — a lively bistro with a 400-label wine list and a menu that runs from simple salads and charcuterie plates to more ambitious Provençal cooking. Michelin-noted and popular: book in advance in summer.

Le Bistrot de Saint-Rémy (on the main boulevard) is more straightforward — grilled meats, Provençal stews, good local wines — and reliably solid. The terrace is pleasant on warm evenings.

For a light lunch, the covered market on Wednesdays has prepared food stalls selling rotisserie chicken, cheese, and bread that make for an excellent picnic in the plane-tree squares nearby.