About seven kilometres west of Akhalkalaki, on a windswept rise above a Georgian village, stands one of the most important medieval churches in the country. Kumurdo is built to a hexaconch plan — a central drum surrounded by six apses — and the carved stonework around the doors and windows is exceptional even by the standards of medieval Georgian masonry. The dome collapsed centuries ago, but the apses, walls, and elegant interior remain.
The cathedral is set in fields with sweeping views of the Javakheti plateau and the Lesser Caucasus. There are usually no guards, no ticket, and no other visitors. A caretaker may unlock the interior on request; ask in the village if the door is shut. The drive from Akhalkalaki takes about fifteen minutes on rough but passable roads, and a return taxi from town should not cost much.