☰Akhalkalaki

The two obvious excursions from Akhalkalaki both lie to the northwest, along the Mtkvari river valley. Vardzia is the cave city carved into a cliff in the 12th century — the high point of any visit to this corner of Georgia. Akhaltsikhe is the regional capital, with a heavily restored Ottoman fortress and the only halfway decent restaurants for a hundred kilometres around. Both can be done by marshrutka in a single day if you start early.

Akhalkalaki sits on a high plateau a long way from anywhere. Marshrutka minibuses from Tbilisi take around four hours and leave from the Ortachala bus terminal; the route climbs steeply once you turn off the Borjomi road. Connections from Akhaltsikhe are quicker and more frequent, about an hour and a half on a slow but scenic road.

The border crossing into Armenia is at Ninotsminda–Bavra, about thirty kilometres south. Shared taxis and minibuses run from Akhalkalaki to Gyumri, Armenia's second city — expect a couple of hours and minimal hassle at the post. A direct private taxi to Gyumri is in the region of $20 to $30.

The Kars–Tbilisi–Baku railway passes through Akhalkalaki, but at the time of writing passenger service is irregular and mainly geared to freight. Check current schedules in Tbilisi before planning a train arrival.

Akhalkalaki itself has only a handful of sights — the ruined Ottoman-era fortress at the edge of town and the Armenian cathedral on the main square. The real draws are within a short drive: the 10th-century Kumurdo Cathedral, the volcanic peaks of the Javakheti Plateau, and the lakes that scatter the highlands.