O Glaros — the Seagull — is the long-running taverna on the Ammoudia harbour. Tables sit on a paved terrace right above the river boats, with a clear view across to the reedbeds opposite. The menu is short and local: grilled eel from the Acheron, sardines, sea bass roasted whole, and a serviceable Greek salad.
Service is friendly and slightly chaotic at high season. Order the catch of the day if it includes river eel — it is the dish the village is known for. Open from May through September; no reservations, arrive early in August.