Chora, the island's capital, is the classic Cycladic hilltop village: whitewashed cube houses stacked up a rocky ridge, a working windmill at the top, and lanes too narrow for any vehicle larger than a donkey. It sits at around 400 metres, high enough that the Aegean appears as a distant shimmer on clear days.
The main square has three or four tavernas where you can eat well on grilled octopus, fresh fish, and local cheeses. The village is small enough to explore completely on foot in an afternoon, but pleasant enough to justify sitting on a terrace with a glass of ouzo for considerably longer. The Venetian castle at the top of the ridge (Kastro) is worth the short climb for the view across the island.