Church of Panagia Kera

A small, three-aisled Byzantine church set in an olive grove about two kilometres below Kritsa, on the road from Agios Nikolaos. From the outside it looks modest — a low whitewashed building with a rounded apse — but step inside and the interior walls are covered almost entirely in 13th and 14th century frescoes that are among the best-preserved in Crete.

The three aisles are dedicated to different saints and periods of painting. The central nave has a complete narrative cycle of New Testament scenes. The south aisle, dedicated to St. Anne, has portraits of unusual delicacy and warmth. Entrance is ticketed and the site is managed by the Greek Ministry of Culture; it gets busy in high summer, so arriving early morning gives you the frescoes largely to yourself.

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The frescoes in the central nave were painted in the 13th century during the period of Venetian rule, when Byzantine artists worked alongside Latin patrons in an uneasy but productive coexistence. The Last Judgement scene — where damned souls are swallowed by a great beast — is one of the most vivid pieces of medieval religious art in the Aegean.