Iliovasilema (the name means "sunset" in Greek) is a fish taverna in Kini village, right on the waterfront where the fishing boats dock. The fish comes straight from the local fleet, and sitting here with grilled sea bream and a glass of Syriot white wine as the sun descends into the Aegean is about as good as simple pleasures get.
The menu is whatever was caught that morning — displayed on ice at the entrance so you can point at what you want. Prices are calculated by weight for the fish, which means a good-sized meal can add up, but the quality justifies it. Book ahead in July and August; at other times you can usually walk in.