One of the most reliable traditional tavernas in Ermoupoli, Stelara sits a few streets back from the waterfront and serves straightforward Greek food done well: grilled fish, lamb chops, stuffed tomatoes, and a house wine that comes in metal jugs. The prices are fair and the portions generous.
The clientele is mostly local, which is the best endorsement a taverna can have. Arrive early in high season as it fills quickly and reservations are not taken. The owner has been running the place for decades and occasionally emerges from the kitchen to argue with regulars about football, which is exactly the atmosphere you want.