☰Ano Poli

The Upper Town — the only quarter of Thessaloniki to escape the great fire of 1917 — is a steep tangle of narrow lanes, timber-framed Ottoman houses and Byzantine churches climbing toward the city walls. Aim for the Eptapyrgio fortress at the top: the views back down over the rooftops to the gulf and Mount Olympus are the best in the city, especially at sunset. Come up on foot if you can manage the slope, and stop on the way down at one of the small ouzeries tucked into the back streets.