In an old wooden house tucked off Aðalstræti, Fischersund is part shop, part exhibition, part workshop, run by Jónsi (the Sigur Rós frontman) and his sisters. The family-made perfumes are based on Icelandic landscapes — birch buds, sea spray, moss, smoked fish — and the tiny back room is set up as an exhibition space for whichever artist is currently in residence.
It is the sort of place that exists in Reykjavik and not many other capitals: half retail, half art project, entirely sincere. A small cafe sells tea brewed with Icelandic herbs.