Bastion is Kinsale's Michelin-starred restaurant, a small tasting-menu operation that has brought serious fine dining to a town more associated with relaxed seafood. The menu is short, changes regularly, and uses Irish produce — particularly west Cork fish, dairy, and vegetables — in ways that are technically accomplished without being showy. The room holds perhaps 30 covers; it is intimate to the point of being slightly claustrophobic, which suits the cooking.
Booking months in advance is necessary for Saturday evenings; mid-week bookings are easier. It is not the kind of place for a spontaneous dinner, but for a celebratory meal with good wines, it is one of the better restaurants in the south of Ireland.