A commemorative plaque marks Via San Nicolò 30, one of several addresses where Joyce lived during his years in Trieste. He occupied this apartment from 1907 to 1909, during which time he wrote much of Dubliners and began A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man. The street runs through the heart of the old city, close to the waterfront and the commercial centre where Joyce taught English at the Berlitz School.
Joyce's Trieste years are less celebrated than his time in Paris, but in many ways more formative — the city's polyglot, cosmopolitan character left a clear mark on his work. A self-guided walk connecting his various addresses (he moved frequently, often fleeing creditors) makes for an absorbing afternoon.