Rome's most authentically working-class neighbourhood, built on a hill made entirely of broken Roman amphorae (the name comes from testa, shard). For centuries the city's slaughterhouse district, Testaccio remains Rome's best neighbourhood for eating — proper offal at Flavio al Velavevodetto, cacio e pepe at Felice, and the covered Mercato di Testaccio for produce and street food.
The neighbourhood is compact and unpretentious, a 20-minute walk south of the Colosseum. The Monte dei Cocci — the potsherd hill — has bars and clubs built into its caves at the back, making it one of Rome's more unusual nightlife spots in summer.