Gran Caffè Schenardi has been operating on Corso Italia since 1818, making it one of the oldest continuously running cafes in Lazio. The interior has preserved its 19th-century fittings — mirrored walls, marble counter, ornate plasterwork — and the sense that this is where Viterbo's notables have always come to discuss the news of the day.
Coffee is serious here, as it should be in a place with two centuries of practice. The pastry counter is excellent; the cornetti and local cakes are baked on the premises. In summer the outdoor tables on the Corso are the best place for an evening aperitivo watching the passeggiata. A Viterbo institution worth visiting for its own sake, not just for the coffee. Corso Italia 11.