The serious dinner address in Manarola — a small family-run trattoria above the village on Via Aldo Rollandi, with a terrace looking down at the harbour and out to sea. Billy himself runs the kitchen; the menu is short, the seafood is bought that morning, and the antipasto plate alone is worth booking for.
Try the tegame di acciughe (baked anchovies with potatoes), the spaghetti with sea urchin, and whatever whole fish is on the board. The wine list runs deep on Ligurian whites. Two or three courses with wine sits around €55–70 per head, which is fair for the quality. Book a week ahead in summer.