The tiny harbour at the foot of the village is the centre of everything. A concrete slipway runs down between the cliffs to a sheltered cove where the village's fishing boats are winched in and out by an antique crane. There is no beach — just smooth black rocks and deep, clear water you can dive into from purpose-cut ledges.
Swim here in the late afternoon, when the day-trippers have started back to their hotels and the cliff face still holds the heat. The water is cool, clear and surprisingly deep close to shore. Bring goggles: small fish, the occasional octopus, and weatherworn lobster traps reward a five-minute snorkel. The harbour bar serves a strong negroni at 6pm.