Puny is the long-running Portofino institution, on the harbour-front terrace with the best view of the boats. The pesto here is famous — made fresh in the kitchen with Pra basil, Ligurian olive oil, and pine nuts — and goes either over trofie pasta or over linguine. The other signature is pappardelle al Portofino, with shrimp, tomato, and cream.
Reservations essential, weeks ahead in summer. Cash and card both work. It is not cheap but you are not paying just for the food — the view, the room, and the hundred-year history are all part of the bill.