The narrow-gauge railway that climbs from Ventimiglia up through the Roja valley and over the Alps to Cuneo is one of the great slow train journeys of northern Italy. In roughly three hours the line gains nearly 1,000 metres of altitude, passes through medieval hilltop villages like Dolceacqua and Pigna, plunges into Alpine tunnels, and crosses bridges that offer vertiginous views down to river gorges below. The descent into the Piedmontese plain on the far side is equally dramatic.
The train departs from Ventimiglia's main station a handful of times a day. You don't need to go all the way to Cuneo to make the journey worthwhile — a return trip to Dolceacqua, the village made famous by Monet's paintings of its medieval bridge, is achievable in a half-day and needs no car. Check the Trenitalia schedule carefully, as some services run only on certain days.