Ventimiglia's old town occupies a rocky promontory above the mouth of the Roja river, separated from the modern town by the river itself. Getting there means crossing one of the old bridges and climbing — the streets are narrow, steep, and in places stepped, lined with tall medieval houses in terracotta and ochre. It is genuinely quiet up here: few tourists make the effort, and the daily life you encounter feels lived-in rather than performed.
The main square, Piazza Cattedrale, sits at the summit near the cathedral and a cluster of Romanesque churches. The views back down to the coast and across toward France are reward enough for the climb. Wander without a fixed plan — the old town is small enough that you cannot get seriously lost, and the unexpected corners are the point.