Trullo Sovrano

On Via Cadorna in Rione Aia Piccola stands the only two-storey trullo in the world, the Trullo Sovrano. Every other trullo is a single room capped by a single cone; this one was built in the 18th century by a wealthy priest's family who apparently felt entitled to ignore the usual structural logic. The result is a house of surprising size and presence, its upper floor reached by an internal staircase.

Today it serves as a museum of trullo domestic life, with original furniture, agricultural tools, and the cramped sleeping areas that families squeezed into these deceptively small spaces. It is a good antidote to the romantic view of trullo life: the interiors were dark, the ventilation limited, and the winters cold. The museum does an honest job of showing both the ingenuity of the construction and the hardship of living in it.

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A story
The removable stone pinnacles on top of each trullo cone were not decorative afterthoughts — they were tax-evasion tools. Under the Kingdom of Naples, a completed permanent dwelling attracted a property tax. By keeping the pinnacle removable, the owner could claim the house was still under construction whenever an inspector arrived. The Trullo Sovrano was wealthy enough that its owner simply built two floors regardless.

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