A short walk from the old-town walls in a residential side street, Lo Romani is a small family-run trattoria that locals frequent for honest, well-priced Sardinian cooking — the kind of place that's easy to walk past without noticing. The handwritten daily menu shifts with the market and includes a strong selection of pasta and seafood: malloreddus alla campidanese, fregola with clams, baked fish, and a rotating selection of antipasti.
It is small enough that a reservation is sensible in the evening, particularly in season. The owners speak limited English but bring enthusiasm and recommendations. The half-litre house red, made by a relative, is unexpectedly good.