The harbour at Acitrezza has a handful of seafood restaurants, almost all of them good. The catch comes off the boats in the morning and onto your plate by afternoon. Look for grilled swordfish, spaghetti ai ricci (sea urchin pasta), and frittura di paranza — the mixed fried fish that is the default order of locals. Prices are reasonable by Sicilian standards and the setting, with the Faraglioni visible from most tables, is hard to beat.