Orbetello is one of the best small towns in Tuscany for fish. The lagoon supplies bottarga (cured grey mullet roe), eel, and sea bass; the open sea brings everything else. Look for pasta with bottarga grated over it, anguilla sfumata (smoked eel), and the local cousin of risotto al nero made with cuttlefish from the bay. The fishermen's cooperative shop on the causeway, I Pescatori di Orbetello, sells the bottarga, smoked fish, and tinned anchovies that show up on local menus.