Basilica della Madonna dell'Umiltà

Renaissance basilica with an octagonal dome attributed to Vasari

The Basilica della Madonna dell'Umiltà is the largest Renaissance church in Pistoia, built in the 16th century to house a venerated image of the Virgin. The exterior is plain brick, which makes the interior dome — added by Giorgio Vasari in the 1560s — all the more surprising: a vast octagonal cupola frescoed with scenes of the Virgin's glorification, rising unexpectedly over a relatively modest nave.

The church is still active and the interior is regularly open. The dome frescoes were completed after Vasari's death and have the slightly overcrowded quality typical of late Mannerist decoration, but the sheer scale is impressive. The church sits a few blocks south of the Piazza del Duomo and is easy to combine with a walk to the Ospedale del Ceppo.

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The dome was built by Giorgio Vasari in the 1560s — the same Vasari who wrote the Lives of the Artists, the foundational text of art history. His dome was controversial: at 59 feet in diameter it is the second largest in Tuscany after Brunelleschi's in Florence, and it cracked soon after completion. Reinforcing iron rings were added in secret, and the cracks were plastered over. The structural problems were eventually resolved in a more recent restoration.

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