At the foot of the Trevi hill, in the hamlet of Bovara, this Romanesque abbey church sits beside the road to Spoleto in a state of preserved austerity. Founded in the 11th century, it is considered one of the finest Romanesque buildings in Umbria — and one of the least visited, since it sits several kilometres below the hilltop town and requires a deliberate detour.
The exterior is low and wide, built from blocks of pinkish-grey stone, with a simple bell tower attached. Inside, the nave is supported by four pairs of columns, some of them ancient Roman spoils, with carved capitals in varying states of wear. There are fragmentary frescoes in the apse dating from the 12th and 13th centuries. Come on a weekday morning and you may have the place to yourself.