Borca di Cadore and the ENI Village

Borca di Cadore is a small comune immediately south of San Vito di Cadore, separated by only a few kilometres of the Boite valley. The village itself is unremarkable, but adjacent to it lies one of the most unusual architectural complexes in the Alps: the Villaggio Eni, a mid-century modernist holiday colony built for the workers of Italy's state oil company.

The Villaggio comprises around seventy small bungalows designed by Edoardo Gellner, arranged organically across a pine forest with a modernist church — one of Carlo Scarpa's early works — as its centrepiece. The complex fell into decades of abandonment after ENI withdrew, becoming a melancholy ruin half-swallowed by the forest. In recent years it has been partially restored and opened for visits, drawing architects and design enthusiasts from across Europe. The church in particular, with its brutalist concrete forms set against the surrounding peaks, is striking.

things to do sight architecture
A story
The Villaggio Eni at Borca di Cadore was built between 1954 and 1963 as a holiday resort for the employees of the Italian state oil company ENI, personally commissioned by Enrico Mattei. Designed by Edoardo Gellner with contributions from Carlo Scarpa, it was conceived as a complete modernist community in the mountains — a utopian project that fell into abandonment after Mattei's death in a plane crash in 1962.