Al Covo is a long-established Venetian restaurant in the Castello sestiere, run by Cesare Benelli and his Texan wife Diane, who handles the desserts. It has been one of Venice's most respected restaurants since the 1980s, known for rigorous sourcing — much of the seafood comes from day-boat fishermen in the lagoon — and cooking that stays within the Venetian tradition without being nostalgic about it.
The menu changes daily with what is available from the market: whole grilled turbot, risotto di go (goby), baked spider crab, sarde in saor (sweet-sour sardines). The room is small and the atmosphere warm without being fussy. Reservations are essential, particularly at weekends. Prices are high but not unreasonable for the quality.