A natural-wine bar on the Cannaregio canal that Adventurous Kate calls her favourite spot in Venice. Small, serious about its producers, and very good about cicchetti — creative small plates that change daily depending on what's in season. One of the best places in the city for the early-evening ombra ritual (a small glass of wine with something to eat before dinner).
Go at 17:00–18:00 before it fills. The fondamenta outside allows you to drink on the canal edge as the evening light comes off the water — one of the genuinely lovely experiences Venice offers without a ticket.