Anice Stellato is a much-loved osteria on the Fondamenta della Sensa, in the quiet northern reaches of Cannaregio where Venetians outnumber visitors. Tables run along the canal outside, and the small interior fills quickly, so book ahead for dinner. The name — "star anise" — hints at a kitchen a little more adventurous than the standard fritto misto.
The draw is honest, well-sourced cooking: a counter of cicchetti for a quick stop, and a sit-down menu strong on lagoon fish — sarde in saor, grilled seafood, a good fritto — with proper homemade pasta. It is the kind of neighbourhood osteria that justifies the walk out from the centre, paired easily with the nearby Madonna dell'Orto.