Murano

Glassmaking island 15 minutes from Venice — furnaces, a glass museum, and a Byzantine church

Murano is a cluster of islands 15 minutes north of Venice by vaporetto, synonymous with glassblowing since the late 13th century. The main canal, Canale degli Angeli, is lined with glass showrooms ranging from excellent to tourist-trap, and the working furnaces are open to visitors for free demonstrations throughout the day.

The best way to see Murano glassmaking is to book a visit to one of the historic furnaces (fornaci) rather than watching the street demonstrations, which are sometimes staged with imported glass. The Museo del Vetro on Fondamenta Giustinian traces the history of Venetian glass from Roman times to the present and has extraordinary historical pieces. The church of Santi Maria e Donato, with its 12th-century apse and mosaic floor, is one of the finest Byzantine-Romanesque buildings in the lagoon. Allow a half-day for Murano.

things to do sight
A story
In 1291 the Venetian Republic ordered all glassmakers to move their furnaces from Venice to Murano, ostensibly for fire safety. In practice it was also a way to keep the secrets of Venetian glassmaking contained — the techniques for producing cristallo (clear glass), lattimo (milk glass), and millefiori (thousand flowers) were trade secrets worth protecting. Glassmakers who tried to leave the Republic faced serious consequences.