In summer, several bars and restaurants along Jomas iela operate large outdoor terraces that become the social centre of Jurmala's evenings. The atmosphere is more relaxed than Riga's bar scene — people linger over beers and cocktails until late, the nights are warm (the Baltic summer is long), and the crowd is a comfortable mix of local families, couples, and younger visitors from Riga.
The terraces come into their own around 8pm, when the day-trippers have caught the train back to the city and the street quiets enough to have a conversation. Latvian craft beer has developed considerably in recent years, and some bars stock a reasonable range alongside the usual international lagers. Cocktails are generally straightforward and fairly priced.
The off-season picture is entirely different. Between October and April, Jurmala's bars largely close or run minimal service — a few year-round places cater to local residents, but the terrace culture shuts down completely. If you're visiting outside summer, don't expect a lively evening scene.