Tromsø has a surprisingly lively bar scene for a city of 75,000 people at 70 degrees North. Most of the action is concentrated in the city centre, within a short walk of the harbour and the cathedral.
Ølhallen at Storgata 4 is the most storied drinking establishment in town — a pub attached to the Mack Brewery, which claims to be the world's northernmost brewery. The pub has been here since 1928, and while the brewery itself has since moved production south, the tap list still features Mack beers alongside the usual Norwegian selection. The room is plain and the beer is cold; no frills, no apology.
Blå Rock Cafe on Strandgata is the city's rock music bar, with a good selection of beers on tap and live music on weekends. It is loud, unpretentious, and popular with a broad mix of locals.
Risø and Driv are among the better options for cocktails and evening drinks in a more relaxed atmosphere. Driv is particularly popular with students from the university. Most Tromsø bars stay open until 3am on weekends, and in summer the midnight daylight makes the evenings feel strange and extended in a pleasant way.
For coffee, the city centre has several good independent cafes. Kaffebønna near Stortorget is reliable for a proper espresso.