Late May to early September is high season, and the town is packed on weekends. Expect full restaurants, busy footpaths in the loess gorges, and a real summer-festival atmosphere on the market square. The annual Festival of Folk Bands and Singers in late June is the biggest event of the year — Polish folk musicians from across the country play on outdoor stages around town.
September and early October are perhaps the best time: warm enough for walking, autumn colours on the loess hills, and far fewer day-trippers. Winter is quiet and very cold but pretty when the river freezes and snow settles on the merchants' houses; some restaurants and galleries close on weekdays.
April and early May can be cool and muddy in the gorges; the paths in the landscape park are at their worst.