Caminha's parish church sits at the eastern edge of the old town, a fortified-looking pile of granite that was begun in 1488 and dragged on through the next century. From outside it is plain to the point of grim — buttressed walls, a low square tower, very little decoration. The doorway facing the river is the exception: a Renaissance portal with carved saints and grotesques, well worth a look.
The interior is the surprise. The wooden ceiling of the nave is a coffered Mudéjar work in chestnut, dense with geometric panels and lozenges, painted and gilded. Side chapels hold sixteenth-century altarpieces and a fine baroque organ. Entry is usually free during morning hours; if the door is locked, the sacristan lives nearby and can sometimes be found.