Cais do Sodré has undergone the most dramatic transformation in Lisbon's recent urban history. The neighbourhood around the waterfront station was long known as a sailors' district — rough bars, cheap restaurants, and a red-light street (Rua Nova do Carvalho, now called the Pink Street for its painted surface). That rough edge has been preserved and promoted rather than erased, and the Pink Street is now the spine of one of the city's best nightlife districts.
The Time Out Market occupies the renovated 1892 market building at the top of the street — a food hall with stalls from some of Lisbon's best chefs, chaotic at weekends but excellent for a meal and a glass of wine. The ferry terminal sends boats across the Tagus to Cacilhas throughout the day. Evening here starts early by Lisbon standards, with a mixed crowd that includes locals, expats, and tourists. The bars stay open late and the atmosphere remains good-natured.