The grand old café on Praça do Bocage, with marble-topped tables, a long bar, and a steady flow of locals from breakfast through evening. The pastry counter is the main draw — try the Tortas de Azeitão, a thin rolled cake filled with egg cream, made in the village of Azeitão just inland. Good strong bicas, fresh orange juice, and the daily papers.
It is the kind of café Setúbal still does well: unhurried, slightly faded, and entirely for locals. Open from early until late evening.