Church of Jesus (Igreja de Jesus)

The Church of Jesus, built in the late 15th century, is one of the most important early Manueline buildings in Portugal. Six twisted columns of grey-pink Arrábida marble hold up the vault of the nave, knotted like sailor's rope — a motif that would soon spread across Portugal as the country grew rich on overseas trade. The exterior is restrained; the interior is where the strangeness lives.

The attached convent now houses the Museum of Setúbal, with archaeology and religious art from the region. The church and museum sit a short walk uphill from the centre and are usually quiet, free of the queues that ring Belém in Lisbon.

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A story
The twisted ropes of stone inside Jesus are the earliest known Manueline work in Portugal — architect Diogo Boitac was experimenting here, around 1490, with the maritime motifs that would later cover the great monasteries of Lisbon.