Graham's lodge on the upper hillside of Gaia is one of the most complete port wine visitor operations, with an excellent museum tracing the history of the wine trade, well-maintained cellars with ageing barrels arranged in photogenic rows, and a restaurant and bar with sweeping views across the Douro. The tour is detailed and the guides knowledgeable; this is one of the lodges where you come away with a genuine understanding of how port is made rather than simply a pleasant tasting experience.
The 1890 Lodge, as the main building is known, dates from the period when the Gaia lodges were at their commercial peak — the architecture is substantial Victorian industrial, with thick granite walls and high-vaulted ceilings designed to maintain consistent temperature. The museum section includes original equipment from earlier eras of winemaking and shipping.
Graham's flagship wine, the 1882 vintage, is one of the most sought-after ports ever produced; even those who cannot afford a bottle of such rarity can taste the current vintage and twenty-year tawnies for a more accessible experience. The restaurant on the terrace is open for lunch and is good, if not cheap.