Viseu is the commercial and cultural capital of Dão wine country, and the city is the best place to understand and taste wines from one of Portugal's most underrated appellations. Dão reds — made primarily from Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz on granite soils at altitude — are firm, earthy, and fragrant, with good natural acidity and real aging potential.
The best way to explore them is at a good restaurant in the old city. Ask for the house Dão or look for names like Quinta dos Roques, Quinta da Pellada, or Casa de Santar on the wine list. The white Dão wines, made from Encruzado, are excellent and even less well-known internationally than the reds — fresh and mineral with a stone-fruit character. The municipal market in the city centre sells a good selection of bottles at cellar-door prices.