The two old fishing barrios east of the centre, strung along the coast and best reached by the seafront promenade or the number 11 bus. Pedregalejo has the cleaner sands and the run of chiringuitos serving fish grilled on wood-fired skewers stuck into half-buried boats. El Palo, a kilometre further on, is rougher and more authentic — narrow lanes, working fishermen, and the city's best-loved seafood lunches.