Manzanilla is what Sanlúcar does better than anywhere else on earth. It's a dry, pale fino sherry produced only in this town, and the salty sea air blowing in from the Atlantic — the poniente — is said to give it a distinctive tangy character that you can't replicate a few kilometres inland. The difference between manzanilla and a fino made in Jerez is real and obvious: manzanilla is lighter, saltier, and more delicate.
The major bodegas all offer tours: Barbadillo is the largest and most accessible, while Hidalgo-La Gitana (whose manzanilla bottle is a classic Spanish bar staple) and Delgado Zuleta are also worth visiting. Most tours end with a tasting. Book ahead in summer, and try to visit in the morning before the heat sets in. A chilled glass of manzanilla with a plate of boquerones fritos — fresh anchovies deep-fried whole — is the defining Sanlúcar food experience.