The Bierzo Denominación de Origen encompasses a horseshoe of vineyards around Ponferrada, sheltered from Atlantic rain by mountains to the north and warmer than the Castilian plateau to the east. The Mencía grape dominates, producing red wines with a distinctive freshness and minerality — lighter than Ribera del Duero, more structured than Galician reds, with a character all their own.
The most interesting wine villages lie on the hillsides around Villafranca del Bierzo and Corullón, where old-vine Mencía on steep slate soils produces wines that Spanish critics now rank among the country's best. Visiting the area means driving through landscapes of apple orchards and chestnut forests interrupted by rows of vines on terraced hillsides. Several producers offer visits and tastings; ask at the Ponferrada tourist office for current recommendations, as the winery scene changes as new producers emerge.