The main square, the Plaça de la Llibertat, has several cafés and restaurants with outdoor tables under the arcades. The offer leans toward the tourist end of the spectrum — sandwiches, set lunches, and plates of cheese and charcuterie — but the setting is genuinely pleasant, and a glass of local wine here while watching visitors stream in from the bridge is one of Besalú's simple pleasures.
It gets crowded at midday in peak season, but the square is large enough that it rarely feels unbearable. Good for a light lunch or an afternoon drink when you need a rest from sightseeing.