Cadaqués is dramatically different depending on the season. In July and August it is packed — the roads in are slow, parking is a problem, and the village feels like a different place. Many people love it precisely in this period: the bay is full, the restaurants are at their best, and the evening atmosphere on the waterfront is genuinely lively. But it requires tolerance for crowds.
May, June, and September are the best months for most visitors: warm enough to swim, manageable crowds, the Dalí house tour bookable without months of advance planning. October is quieter still, the light is beautiful for photography, and many restaurants and hotels are still open. The tramontana — a cold, powerful north wind — can blow at any time of year and does not suit everyone; it can pin you indoors for two or three days at a stretch.
In winter, much of the tourist infrastructure shuts down and Cadaqués returns to being a quiet village with a small year-round population. Walking Cap de Creus in January with no one else on the path is its own reward.